Sevilla

Yesterday was a day of settling in. I went to the supermerket three times. I now have pretty much everything I need to be able to eat any meal here for the next few days until I have to go out again and buy more food. I found my supermarket experience mostly stress free compared to my early days in Buenos Aires (and perhaps because of Buenos Aires I was prepared for anything).

Not too far from my apartment is a street called Calle Feria. I chose this apartment because on the website they had pictures of Calle Feria and it looked like there were some good shops there, including one that sold prepared Spanish food to take home. I so far have not found that shop and am afraid it is no longer. I will keep looking.

After my morning supermarket run and breakfast, I walked to the old center where the cathedral is. Sevilla seems to have no straight streets. They are all winding and then they end and another one starts. I was feeling very confused and was afraid I would not be able to find my way back.

After walking around a bit and taking some pictures, I wandered to the cathedral and watched the gypsies doing a scam. There were three women there (but many others in the area). They hold out a little branch of rosemary and say "it's a gift" and then unsuspecting tourists take it. Then they grab their hand and it looks like they do a little fortune telling and then tell them to pay them. Surprisingly, most tourists do pay them. I felt bad for them. One woman simply walked away. I wanted to ask them why they were doing that. Was it because there is still discrimination against gypsies (Roma) or is it just an easy way to make a living? I'm sure if I ask a Spaniard I will only get one side of the story.

Finally I passed a sign for a tour bus. It was kind of like the Turibus I took in Mexico City, which I found a really good way to get oriented. I bought a ticket, and think I was overcharged (she didn't give me all of my change) found the bus, and hopped on. It was beginning to get hot. I was sitting on the upper deck in the sun.

We rode through an area that was set up for the Iberian-American Expo in the early 20th century (I forget the date) - we passed some beautiful buildings - Plaza Espana, several pavilions set up by different participating countries (they call them pavilions but they are actually buildings) and a nice park. It's definitely an area I want to explore more. Then we crossed over the river and sat in traffic for about 30 minutes. It was horrible. I was feeling grumpy, hot and tired. We passed through a gypsy neighborhood where supposedly flamenco is very strong as well as some areas where there are clay ovens (to make pottery). All I saw was a lot of traffic. It does not seem to be a place I want to explore more.

I returned home and turned the air-conditioner on and ate lunch and watched some of MTV's Real World (I am now hooked on the Real World since I found out I can watch old MTV shows online).

At about 4:20, I decided to go out to pick up a little more stuff so I could cook dinner. But it was still siesta time and everything was closed. It was a little eerie to be outside with very few people on the street. Buses were empty. All of the shops were closed. I came back and watched another episode of the Real World (I am currently watching Real World Hollywood, which is very intense).

I went out again and got some sort of cooked ham pieces, some carrots and cooked beets. As I was paying I realized I wanted wine but felt it was too late. So I came home, unloaded my bag and went back to Dia, the first supermarket I went to, which I had decided was better than Mas, the second one. I got a bottle of wine, vinegar, and two bottles of water.

I came home and made a pot of lentils with the cooked ham and carrots. I made a beet salad. I had a nice dinner while I watched more Real World.

I was waiting to hear from the bike rental place where I had arranged to rent a bike for my time here. They didn't provide me with their address, so I had no way of finding them. Finally at about 9:30, the e-mail arrived, telling me their location and hours. I need to go there before 2 today to get the bike.

I am excited about having a bike here. It seems like cycling is pretty normal, but not like Amsterdam, where I will feel like I might get hit by a crazy cyclist. There are some bike paths, and drivers seem pretty respectful of cyclists. They even have these bikes that you can rent at different stations around the city and then drop off at other stations. It's a good deal. The first 29 minutes are free. It won't work for me because I want my bike to explore, not to commute, but these commuter bikes seem to work really well.

My first impression of Sevilla is that it is culturally very rich and I am only seeing the surface. The many bars with elaborate tile work are intriguing. The Roma women ripping off tourists are mysterious and slightly bothersome. The winding streets are confusing but I am sure hold all kinds of treasures for me to find. And, hopefully, in some way I will meet some Spanish people who can help me understand a little more about this city I will call home for the next month and a half.