Getting Closer to the Heart of Sevilla

I don't know why I chose that title, because it is impossible for me to be anywhere near the heart of Sevilla in less than a week. I guess what I am beginning to understand is that it is very complex, no only in its layout of winding streets that run in all directions, but in its history, culture, food, etc.

The good news is that I am beginning to feel settled. I like my apartment and I like my neighborhood. I've been enjoying the variety of food I can get from fresh, delicious fruit and vegetables, to olives and prepared foods where I can have my own tapas feast at home. I'm happy that I have a bike so that I can get some exercise and also get around more quickly than I can on foot. It's all good. Well, except for...here it comes...the weather. It is SO hot. It's really kind of ridiculous. It went up to 98 degrees today. But with air-conditioning, shade and strategic planning on when to go out and when to stay in, I am surviving.

It's all good.

Today I decided to walk to the center. For the past few days I have been on a hunt for Calle Aire. Why? Because I am looking for this Arab-style bathhouse called Aire de Sevilla where I can use the baths and get a massage. It is located in a little part of Sevilla called Santa Cruz, which apparently was the old Jewish quarter. It is a maze of streets unlike anything I've ever seen before.

I've tried several times to find Calle Aire and always ended up back in my neighborhood. Today I thought since I have a little bit better understanding of the city, it might work out if I walked.

And so I walked to the center only to find myself at the cathedral. I went inside because the side doors were open and no one made me pay. It was hot, dark, dank, and felt very oppressive. I couldn't understand why there was a need for such a big cathedral. Were there really that many people that came to pray there? Or was it more for show? How much of the labor was slave labor and how much of the gold and silver inside was stolen? I didn't like it and was glad I didn't pay.

My main destination was the Alcazar. I didn't really know what it was, but my guide book says it is Sevilla's answer to the Alhambra in Granada (where I really want to go).

I love Moorish/Islamic architecture and art and thought I'd see some in the Alcazar.

I entered with two large groups - one of them seemed to be German. I don't know where the other group was from. We all entered together and I immediately moved in the opposite direction from which they were going.

Unfortunately, I missed an opportunity to see and experience the best part of the Alcazar before anyone else arrived.

The two groups were standing in an area that had some big European style paintings. I guess this was where the king and queen of Spain, or whoever else used this palace lived. I didn't like the stuff.

What I didn't realize was that very nearby, was this elaborate maze of rooms with incredible Islamic architecture, mosaics, tile work, fountains, etc. When I found it later, it was already mobbed.

Instead, I headed out to the gardens, which I was really happy to have to myself. They were beautiful with all sorts of birds flying around - you could hear doves cooing, and lots of other birds flying from tree to tree and bathing in the fountains. It was quite beautiful and relaxing.

But then I made my way back up to where I first dodged the tour groups and saw people entering another doorway that I had overlooked. That was where the real jewel (in my opinion) of the Alcazar was. I might even go back some day and get there early and go enjoy this part of the palace by myself.

I spent quite a bit of time in this inner courtyard, mesmerized by the architecture and the intricate designs on the walls and ceiling. At one point, a little tour group stopped right in front of me and the tour guide was explaining things in English. I got to learn a little about the history and also the philosophy behind the design of this part of the palace.

I left feeling awed, and also sorry that I hadn't gone in that part when I first arrived.

From there I went to Starbucks. Yep, that's right. It's one of those places that when I am away from home I appreciate, but when I am at home, I avoid. I had a lemon and passionfruit tea frappuchino. Now where else can you get that?

I walked around, found a little supermarket that sold some different prepared dishes to go and headed towards home.

That's when I met the Mormon missionaries.

I posted this story on Facebook, but since not everyone who reads my blog is my facebook friend, I will re-post it here. For now, let's just say I was not very Buddhist in my interaction with them.

I came home, had lunch and looked again at my map to see how I could get to Calle Aire. I decided to head out again because I really wanted to use the baths and get a massage.

So I headed back towards the center, passed where I met the missionaries, passed the supermarket where I bought my lunch and started to wander the streets, looking at my map and trying to figure out where I was and how to get to Calle Aire.

I was all over the place, but eventually I started to get close. And the closer I got the narrower the streets got and the more winding they became. It was incredible. No one was around because it was siesta time. I felt like I was on a search for the Holy Grail.

And then, miraculously I stumbled across Calle Aire.

I knew there would be no way I could find my way back again by the way I came, so I continued past the hammam (bath house) and found myself on this little street lined with tapas joints and people eating lunch. That street ran directly to the cathedral. Now I had a landmark and a major street that would take me back.

And so I retraced my steps, past the tapas again (tempted to stop and eat, even though I'd already had lunch) and went in to make a reservation for Monday.

Now I'm back, it's cool, it's comfortable, I'm tired and I'm doing laundry. Soon the shops will open again and people will be back out on the street. And hopefully, soon, the heat will begin to subside and some air will blow.

Things are going well, and I'm glad I'm here. I found a gym up the street, which I will join on Monday, and I found a part of town that I want to explore more. I have also discovered that getting lost is kind of fun and that eventually I will come out to some place I recognize.

Now, as far as the heart of Sevilla, it's still a mystery. But I hope one day it will begin to reveal itself to me.