I think my invitation to go to a cremation was one of those "fake invitations" - I saw the old guy who invited me this morning when I went down for breakfast and he only said "Salamat Pagi" (good morning) and then something else that was beyond my mastery of Bahasa. He never mentioned the cremation.
Later, when I ran into Made, my maid and personal assistant, he asked me if I went to Kecak last night. How did he know that? I kind of get the feeling that people here are psychic. This girl in the internet cafe asked me yesterday where I was from. I told her America, which is my standard answer as the politically correct "United States" confuses most people (except the Germans who were at my other guest house who said, "oh United States" when I said "America"), anyway after that she said, where are you from in America, San Francisco, California? I asked her how she knew and she said by the way I speak, which is odd, since I speak New Jersey.
Anyway, Made asked me if I went to Kecak and I told him yes. Then he asked me if I wanted to go to another performance tonight. I told him okay, since I didn't know what was up with the cremation. I kind of guessed that the reason he is offering to get me tickets for performances where I can just buy a ticket at the entrance, is because he wants a tip. The ticket was 80,000 rupiah ($8.00) and I decided I would give him the other 20,000 rupiah as a tip (2 bucks), this because I am not sure what to do about tipping him as a maid. I've never mastered that skill and usually leave nothing, or sometimes I will leave something big when I leave.
I am assuming also that Made spoke to his boss (since everyone seems to talk to everyone about everyone here) and told him I bought a ticket to tonight's dance and the boss knew I would not be available to go to the cremation and I am not sure if I committed my first cultural faux pas or not. The boss didn't seem too friendly to me this afternoon and I kind of avoided him because I felt awkward about the invitation that I am not sure is an invitation.
Whew! Bali is hard to understand!
After breakfast, I went for a walk to see if I could find some more of my friend Yaari's recommendations. The only place I have not been in the area from my guest house to the official end of Ubud (or what Lonely Planet calls the "center") is a part of Monkey Forest Rd. I thought I might find some of the spas and restaurants that Yaari recommended there and also if it wasn't too far, I would visit the Monkey Forest.
I walked down a little east/west road that runs from Jalan Hanoman (my street) to Monkey Forest Road, past the men sitting on the sidewalks making funny steering wheel gestures and saying "taxi?" Some of them are very clever and hold up a sign "Do you need a taxi?" One had a sign that said, "Do you need a taxi?" on one side, and on the other "Maybe tomorrow?" since that usually seems to be the follow-up question to "no thanks". I was saying, "yes, maybe tomorrow" as a Japanese maybe ("maybe" means "no"), but then I decided I would be more blunt and have started saying, "no, I don't think so". I've learned that most people on the street (most as in all) who smile and say hello want something. It's ok though, I talk to a lot of people every day! And it is better than the prostitutes blowing kisses in Seville!
The only people who really make me uncomfortable are the beggars. There are women with infants at strategic points around Ubud who look really down and out and hold out a hand and make a very sad puppy dog face. I try not to look at them. They make me uncomfortable because their looks are so pleading and they don't smile like the men saying "Taxi? Maybe tomorrow?"
Monkey Forest Road seems to be a bit busier and more touristy than Jalan Hanoman. I'm glad I am not staying there. I have found that the existence of a beggar means a site that is frequented by tourists. The street I was staying on before had several of them and I am guessing it is because Wayan Nusuriah or whatever her name is, from Eat, Pray, Love, has her shop there and EPL devotees now flock to her storefront to take classes on traditional Indonesian healing herbs. I am guessing she is ripping them off in the same way she ripped Liz off in the book, but who knows. Maybe she is legit. The few times I walked past, there were groups of young, innocent looking foreigners sitting at big tables looking kind of confused.
The chatty girl in the internet cafe is now making an offering to the gods. She is climbing up on a stool with a plate of watermelon, incense, flowers and other goodies and does this beautiful wave of her hand as she makes the offerings. Geckos who I guess make the shrine their home otherwise are surrying along the walls.
Where was I? Ok, back to Monkey Forest Road. Yep, it was busy, and had shops such as Dolce and Gabana and Versus (Versace), which I am guessing are fakes, just like the many "Armani" tailors I saw in Bangkok.
I saw a sign for a doctor and thought I'd make a visit since I woke up this morning with a full feeling in my right ear (the good one). I assumed I got water in my ear spending so much time with my head submerged in the pool yesterday. It was dumb. I laid on the little wall that separates the baby pool from the big pool and my ears were underwater. Not good for someone with one working ear. I didn't want to take a chance so I thought I'd have a doctor look at it.
The doctor was not in, but the girl in the pharmacy/doctor's office called him and we spoke on the phone. I could hear lots of chickens clucking in the background.
He advised me to take some ear drops and if it is not better to visit him tomorrow and he would flush my ear. It feels better now. I think the water has drained.
I stopped at Wayan Bakery and Cafe (one of Yaari's recommendations) for a little refreshment because it was hot and the pineapple pancake I had for breakfast was not giving me enough energy for the heat. I had a black rice with coconut milk and an iced lemongrass tea. The black rice pudding was better than at Nomad, which has convinced me that the food at Nomad is no good, and it is the reputation that draws people in (either that or they like food that is no good). Still, I think my black rice pudding is the best. My lemongrass tea unfortunately was made with real tea and not lemongrass. In Bangkok they sell little bottles of juice and teas at the train station and I was buying lemongrass tea with pandan leaf every day. We were also served it at the cooking school. None of them were made with tea, but only lemongrass, sugar and sometimes pandan leaf. I have not had caffeine since July 1, so today was an exception. No more chances with "teas". I will stick to juices.
From there I walked to the Monkey Forest. Upon entering, there they were - the monkeys - hundreds of them. Some sitting around waiting for food, others playing, others lazing around picking at each other. They kind of smelled and I thought they were a little disgusting and scary. Signs warned of what to do if they jump on you. I was afraid to venture in further to the forest to see the temples because I thought there would be even more monkeys, and also it was not as cool as Lonely Planet said it would be (as in temperature), so I left.
I found a new route back to my hotel and now know that the Monkey Forest is very near if I want to go back!
I had the same lunch at the same place as yesterday. I noticed that I drew a crowd. I think other people think like me. If a place is empty, I won't go, but if there is at least one person eating there, I will take a chance. I noticed people look at me before looking at the restaurant and two couples came to eat there after they saw me. The food is really good and the nasi campur is quite a deal. I love it.
Back to my hotel to rest by the pool, Made came by to chat. He had now changed from his green sarong and head scarf, which is his maid uniform, to shorts and a t-shirt and was busy knocking almost dead leaves down from the trees and sweeping them up. They really take care of things at Artini and Matahari Cottages could have used a little attention to spruce things up. There are surely enough people working there, they could clip the grass, pull some weeds and clear out some of the overgrowth.
Made has offered twice to take me sightseeing on his motorbike. Today I told him I might rent a bicycle and ride around, visit some rice fields, other villages, etc., but he said he would take me on his motorbike and it would not be as hot. It is a very gracious offer and I am assuming it is not just out of the kindness of his heart. Whether he asks or not, I would pay him. I am going to ask the chatty girl in the internet cafe what a fair price would be. I don't know if I will get an honest answer from her since she might try to sell me one of her own tours, but I will try.
While chatting, Made told me Julia Roberts had been here to film Eat, Pray, Love. I missed her. She was here last month. He also told me that the old palm reader Ketut Leyur (or whatever his name is) was in the film. We talked about Wayan as well.
I think I am going to wait a few days before taking Made up on his offer. He has a cold and I need to continue to adjust to the heat. I am feeling like I am adjusting. I don't feel like my blood is boiling anymore and between air-con and dips in the pool, I have ways of regulating my body temperature so that my head does not explode. I also want to develop a bit of a tan so that I can be out in the sun and not get all burnt and blistery. So a few days should be enough time for me to get myself ready to hit the road and for Made to get over his cold.
And that has been my day so far, other than enjoying so much of the things Ubud has to offer. It is a feast for the senses. Walking around I am awestruck at the beauty of the place, from not just a physical perspective, but also spiritual. Offerings are constantly being made (mostly by women) to the gods, who seem to be everywhere. Beautiful sarongs in beautiful colors are worn by both men and women, and men also wear these dashing head scarves that really make them look exotic. The sights, smells and sounds combine to make it a feast for the senses. Added to that the warmth of the people, even if it is only to make a buck, and this really does feel like paradise.
Ok, Epi (I just asked her name) has finished praying, so I can wrap up now and go look for dinner. Now she told me her name is really Sedani - Sedan with an i! She is really funny. Epi is her nickname. She laughed when I told her my name is Ketut Rick (that's what Made calls me) and then she told me she is Made too. Oy, this is confusing.
Ok, time for me to hunt down some new food.
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